Tropicals - Hibiscus
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  (January) I have a hibiscus plant I bought, probably 6 years ago as a small plant at one of the discount stores. It has since become "gangly" -- about 4' tall, with new buds on the ends of all these scrawny-looking "branches". Can I email you a picture and tell me if I need to prune it all the way back to dirt, or what to do? It is in a southeastern bay window, and it gets plenty of light. It is inside year-round, and is still in the same container it came in. What can I do? 

  I don't think I need to see a picture-your description was enough! Tropical hibiscus plants bloom on new growth. If your plant is four years old, hasn't been pruned much or repotted, you have an extremely root-bound plant, which will do little in the way of putting on new growth. Therefore, any flowers that it may produce will be small and sparse--at the tip of the branches. These plants don't like being indoors year-round -- they like full sun and a hot, humid environment. Move it outside after all chances of frost have passed, repot it and cut it back by one-half to two-thirds. Be sure when repotting that you cut off some of the densely matted roots, shake off all the old soil and put it in a slightly larger container with fresh potting soil. Fertilize monthly throughout the growing season, and water when dry. Your plant won't know what hit it after four years of indoor conditions -- your plant should begin to put on healthy new growth, and plenty of blooms.

  (January) I am wintering my Hibiscus Plants in a garage room where they get some sunlight, but, not a lot. To date, they are a lush green and appear to be doing well. I did not prune them back before taking them inside, so they have full foliage. Assuming they continue to do well for the winter, do I need to prune them back in the early Spring before putting them back outside? If not, when do I prune them, if at all? When do I give them fertilizer and what formula do you suggest? I have six large plants and I am keeping my fingers crossed. 

  I am glad they are doing so well. They should be pruned some before the move back outdoors. Otherwise, they won't put on a lot of new growth (unless the pot size is increased) and then they won't bloom as well. Tropical hibiscus plants bloom on the new growth. Many people complain of less flowers on older plants, and the cause is usually less new growth. I would recommend pruning back by at least a third, and more, depending on the size of the plant you want to start out with. I do recommend regular fertilization once you move the plant outdoors as well. Slow release fertilizers work well in combination with water soluble ones such as Peters, Miracle Gro, etc.

  (July) Each year I overwinter my Mandevilla, but it waits until August to begin blooming. Any thoughts on how to get earlier blooms? I also have hibiscus plants that are green and healthy, but never have any flowers. They get plenty of sunlight, and I do water and fertilize regularly. 

  The biggest concern with these overwintered tropicals is getting them to put on new growth early enough to begin flowering. They bloom on the new growth. Often the plants get rootbound in their containers, and put on little to no new growth and we see less flowering in subsequent years. They can be nice green plants, but that is not why you bought them. To encourage new growth, consider repotting to a larger container, or at least removing old soil and cutting off some roots, then shearing back the plant by one third to one half in February or March. This should speed up the process and hopefully give you a blooming plant much earlier. Full sunlight, regular fertilization and water are also very helpful.

  (July) I successfully saved 4 large hibiscus plants from last year. They are in pots and are about 4 feet tall. They bloomed beautifully last year but have not had one bloom since I put them outside in the spring. What do I do? 

  Often times when we save an old tropical flowering plant, it lives in year two but does not put on a lot of new growth, and therefore we have less flowers. Hibiscus plants bloom on new wood, so pruning hard before moving them outdoors would help. At this state, you might try a light shearing, fertilize and water. Fertilization is also critical to keep them blooming. Repot the plants at least every two years to help as well.

  (August) I have two hibiscus plants that have discontinued putting out blooms. I know that we are to pinch off the blooms once they die and thought that I had stayed on top of that. But, they have stopped blooming. Is there anything that we can do to get them back into the blooming phase?

  I assume you are referring to the tropical hibiscus, and not the perennial hardy hibiscus. Tropical hibiscus should continually bloom during the summer months, the perennial form, does have a shorter bloom period, but should still be blooming now. If the tropical ones are in containers, be sure that you are keeping up with your fertilization. We water so frequently, that nutrients are quickly leached out. I know that one of mine is extremely root bound, and that can limit growth, and thus flowering. Luckily, mine is continuing to bloom, but I do keep up with the fertilizer and it gets plenty of sunlight and water.

  (October) In the spring I bought and planted a hibiscus that is hardy only to 32 degrees. It's beautiful and I hate to loose it to the Ozark winter weather . I live in Stone County and the plant is fully exposed, out in the open. Is there a way I can protect it and harden it to survive the winters to come? I'd certainly appreciate any suggestions you have.

  There is no way you can harden a tropical hibiscus enough to survive our winter outdoors. You can either pot it up and bring it indoors, or store it under the house or in your garage-(anywhere to keep it from freezing), or buy a new plant next spring. There are hardy perennial hibiscus that you may want to purchase next year that will come back each spring on their own. I think there is room for both types in your landscape, and I take the easiest route and buy a new tropical plant each summer.

  (October) Your hibiscus article on August 16 perked my interest. Do you think I can leave my plants out over the winter here in Rogers? Will snow affect them? I have been in the habit of taking them to a friend to " baby sit" over the winter in her green house. My plants are 5 to 6 feet tall and probably 7 years old. How far should I cut them back in the fall? What type fertilizer do you recommend and how often.

  The hibiscus I was referring to in the August column was a perennial, hardy type of hibiscus - Hibiscus moscheutos. The plant I believe you are talking about is a tropical hibiscus - Hibiscus rosa sinensis. The perennial form dies to the ground each fall after frost and reappears in the late spring. The tropical form would not survive the winter outdoors, and you would need to bring it inside for it to overwinter. Since yours do have a greenhouse to overwinter in, you can prune them this fall as you move them. I like to prune them back pretty hard before they begin to grow again -- usually in a house situation I do it in late January or February due to the poor growing conditions in a house. In a greenhouse they should thrive and continue to bloom so pruning to the size you prefer is best. Do keep in mind that they bloom on the new growth, so you want to encourage as much new growth as possible. Fertilize monthly throughout the growing season.

  (October) I have three tropical hibiscus plants in individual five gallon containers that I would like to over winter in a dormant condition (if feasible). They would spend the winter months in a 50 degree F basement that would have minimal light. If it is feasible what steps must I take to ensure their survival?

  They should overwinter in this situation very well. They may not look great, but they should survive. Move them into the basement prior to a freeze. Do not cut back at all unless you have to for space considerations. They are going to die back a bit in storage. Water sparingly about once a month -- just enough to make sure the roots don't dry out completely. In late January or early February cut them back by half or more. Gradually expose them to more light if you can, and water a bit more. You can move them back outside in April and begin a fertilization program. The reason we prune so severely is that hibiscus plants bloom on the new growth and you want lots of vigorous new growth for more flowers. The plants will die back and produce weak stems if all the old wood is left after their winter indoors.

  (November) Before I put my tropical hibiscus away for the winter, do I need to prune them? I did last year, and they bloomed this year, but not in abundance. I re-potted them the year before last, could this hinder them from blooming, or should I repot before I put them to bed? Also, can I plant my Confederate Rose now or should I wait until spring? It has tripled in size, but I still have it in a BIG pot, and wintered it in a protected area last year. It is blooming now.

  I would not prune too severely, nor repot when you move the hibiscus inside. They normally do lose some leaves and don't thrive during the winter hiatus indoors due to lower light and less humidity. When you move them back outside, or a month before, you can cut them back severely, and repot. Remember that tropical hibiscus only puts on flowers on new growth. If you have an older plant that is root bound, you won’t have much new growth, and you won’t have as many flowers. Many people find that the plants they over winter, don't bloom as well the second or third year, because the plants are getting older and woodier and or root constricted. I would not plant a confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) in the ground this late in the season. While they have over wintered well the past five years or so, you would not be allowing much time for root establishment before winter weather sets in. They would be best planted in the spring as they begin emerging to allow them to get well established and therefore more winter hardy.

  (November) Before I put my tropical hibiscus plants away for the winter, I need to know whether or not I need to prune them? I did last year, and they bloomed this year, but not in abundance. I re-potted them year before last. Could either of these practices hinder them from blooming? I have no problems keeping them alive throughout the winter, but I have not been overly pleased with their flowering.

  I would not prune too severely, nor repot when you move the hibiscus inside or put them into storage. They normally do lose some leaves and die back a bit during the winter hiatus, so allow for this. When you move them back outside, or a month before, you can cut them back severely, and repot. You do need to encourage new growth next spring, since that is where new flowers will be setting. Many people find that the plants they overwinter, don't bloom as well the second or third year. Lets think about why. Tropical hibiscus plants set flowers on new growth. If you have older plants that are rootbound, or already quite large, they don't put on a lot of new growth. They may look completely healthy with plenty of foliage, but if they don't produce new shoots and stems, they aren't going to produce many new flowers. Another consideration for those kept growing indoors all winter, is that they often have leggy, thin growth from low light and humidity. This is weaker growth that also won't support many flowers. Shearing them back, repotting and reducing root bound conditions, regular water and fertilizer next growing season, should all aid in plenty of new blooms. Or you can do what many others do and buy new plants each year.

  (November) I got a gorgeous hardy hibiscus in mid-October at a local retailer, marked down to $5! It's been pruned into a rather sturdy tree, but we were hesitant to plant it so late in the year, so we left it in the pot. Now I have it in the kitchen in front of a window. Should we try to keep it going like a house plant this winter then plant in outside in the spring, or what?

  If it is the perennial hardy hibiscus, it should have been planted in the ground. After a killing frost, they die back to the ground for the year, reappearing only when the soil warms up again. I wonder, however, if yours is truly a hardy hibiscus, as I can't imagine it being gorgeous in October, nor pruned into a sturdy tree. Perennial hibiscus have the bulk of their blooms in June and July, and by October, it is beginning a decline. If the plant is actually a tropical hibiscus--which could have still been gorgeous with blooms in October, and could have been formed into a small ornamental tree, leave it where it is for the winter, as it would not overwinter outdoors. Move it outside for the summer months, but plan on overwintering it indoors annually.

  (December) Before I put my tropical hibiscus away for the winter, do I need to prune them? I did last year, and they bloomed this year, but not in abundance. I re-potted them the year before last, could this hinder them from blooming, or should I repot before I put them to bed? Also, can I plant my Confederate Rose now or should I wait until spring? It has tripled in size, but I still have it in a BIG pot, and wintered it in a protected area last year. It is blooming now.

  I would not prune too severely, nor repot when you move the hibiscus inside. They normally do lose some leaves and don't thrive during the winter hiatus indoors due to lower light and less humidity. When you move them back outside, or a month before, you can cut them back severely, and repot. Remember that tropical hibiscus only puts on flowers on new growth. If you have an older plant that is root bound, you won’t have much new growth, and you won’t have as many flowers. Many people find that the plants they over winter, don't bloom as well the second or third year, because the plants are getting older and woodier and or root constricted. I would not plant a confederate rose (Hibiscus mutabilis) in the ground this late in the season. While they have overwintered well the past five years or so, you would not be allowing much time for root establishment before winter weather sets in. They would be best planted in the spring as they begin emerging to allow them to get well established and therefore more winter hardy.

  I have a tree hibiscus which I am bringing inside. Should I repot it now or wait until spring? There are lots of feeder roots just beneath the soil surrounding it. I repotted it in May. It is in a 12 inch pot and the plant is 42 inches tall. What do you suggest I do?

  I would leave it alone for the winter. Many of our tropical plants go through a slow growth period, if not a decline, during the short, dry days of winter. In the spring, as you move it outside, then repot. Determine how large you eventually want this plant to grow, when determining your container size. If you continually repot to a larger container, the plant will continue to grow larger. If you want to solve the root overcrowding, but limit size, when you take the plant out of the container, prune off some of the roots, and repot in the same size container using fresh potting soil. This will limit new growth, but solve root overcrowding.

  Enclosed are leaves from my hibiscus plant. There are tiny white flies all over it. They look like they are as small as gnats, or maybe smaller. Last winter I lost one of my hibiscus because of this problem. I have used Orthene on these, and it cut them down for a while, but they came back strong. Malathion gave me the same results. Either I am doing something wrong, or what I am using is wrong. What do you suggest?

  White flies are tenacious insects that can be very difficult to control. For starters, move the hibiscus plant into your garage for winter protection, but not inside your home, or the insects will get on all of your other plants. Remove any of the lower leaves which may be covered in the eggs (small oval masses on the underside of the foliage). Spray with a horticultural oil or Intercept. If using the oil, make sure you get thorough coverage to completely kill them out. Bright yellow sticky traps can also trap the insects, but this will take time. With diligence, you can control the problem, but it is not easy.

  Could you please tell me if this hibiscus--Seminole Hibiscus, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis ‘Seminole’, is winter hardy? It reads like it might, and the sales person said it was. I have my doubts. I know you have mentioned how to tell the difference before, but I have lost it.

  The hibiscus in question is not winter hardy. It is a tropical hibiscus. In fact, on the enclosed card it says cold hardiness is only to 30 - 40 degrees for a low temperature. Move it indoors or to a protected spot for the winter. Some good indicators of hardiness or not are: leaves on hardy types are usually larger, coarse and hairy. Some are deeply cut. Tropical types are glossy and smooth. The flowers are larger, but more one-dimensional than the tropicals.  Tropicals typically have very detailed, showy but smaller blooms.

  I have three hibiscus plants that I have taken inside and am wondering if I am taking care of them properly. I am watering them every other day, and I fertilized them about three weeks ago. They are in a west window, which is the best I can do as far as sunlight is concerned. They have lost at least a third of their leaves, with more yellowing. What is happening?

  I think you are watering way too much. Your plants need less water during the winter, than they do outside during the growing season. Typically once a week or every two weeks is sufficient. It is possible the plants are drowning. Many tropical plants lose leaves during the winter indoors, due to low light and low humidity levels. I would suggest cutting back on your watering, and pruning the plants back by one half or one third. The west window should be ideal. When you see new growth beginning, fertilize with a weak solution of a water soluble fertilizer. Repeat this in three to four weeks. Hopefully, they will recover in time to move them outdoors again for the summer.

  I have a question for you: My wife and I planted hibiscus a few weeks ago in the ground by our pool (some tall red ones and shorter orange bush-like ones). They are very pretty and enhance our yard very well. To our dismay, when we went back for one more to fill things out, the nurseryman said they don't winter in Arkansas and people usually just plant them in pots and/or dig them up and move them inside. However, my mother has hibiscus that she says do come back. Could you please tell me a bit about these plants, their care, how to winter them indoors, and what to do this winter?

  The bushy showy hibiscus that you planted are tropical plants that make non-stop blooms all summer long –they are great around a pool. There are perennial hibiscus plants. The hardy hibiscus dies back completely to the ground every year, has large coarse leaves and flowers the size of dinner plates that begin to bloom in late June through August. They come in red, pink or white. They can grow up to 6 feet or more in one season, but do die completely back after a freeze. The rose-of-Sharon or althea, is also in the hibiscus family and does make a permanent shrub which blooms from June through September, with smaller pink, white, purple or salmon flowers. The tropical hibiscus will give you the most colorful flowers for the longest period of time, but unfortunately will either need to be moved into a garage or house for the winter, or new plants will need to be purchased every spring.

  I moved my hibiscus indoors several months ago, and it already looks hideous. Most of the leaves have fallen off, although an errant bloom will appear every now and then. Is there any hope for this plant surviving the winter, or should I just throw it away now? 

  Tropical blooming plants often suffer from lower light and lower humidity indoors. Give it as much sunlight as possible, and keep it in the coolest room in your home. Prune it back hard in February, and begin to lightly fertilize then as well. Hopefully, with longer days beginning then, the plant will begin to recover and fill back in, in time for the move outdoors.

  This spring I purchased a triple trunk hibiscus tree. It has developed a white powdery something on one trunk and some of the leaves. I have worked a systemic powder into the soil and watered well, but nothing has changed. What should I do? 

  Your hibiscus has a scale insect on the trunk as well as some of the leaves. You need to spray them with either a systemic insecticide or a refined horticultural oil. Don’t move it indoors with this problem. Isolate it or move it into a garage if the weather cools off. Scale insects are hard to kill, but equally hard is the fact that once they are dead, they don’t immediately fall off. But you should see the plant putting on new clean foliage. Be sure the systemic powder you used was for insects, not diseases. Also, make sure that it should be applied dry. Usually powders are wettable powders and need to be mixed with water before applying them. Dusts are used dry, but become ineffective once wet.

  I have two tropical hibiscus with multiple, 3-foot woven trunks that were pruned into balls on the top when I bought them. They grew well and need to be pruned back to make the balls again. Any tips on when to do that or tricks in how to prune?

  Prune it back in early to mid February. By then, the plant should be acclimated to the inside conditions, and begin putting on new growth.

  I rooted a tropical hibiscus cutting almost by accident. Now it has quite a few roots on it, but I am unsure what to do with it now. It is growing in water. Do I let it grow in water, or should I pot it up in potting soil. How large of a container should I use, and does it need any fertilizer? I have the plant indoors, and it does get bright light. 

  Go ahead and pot the plant up now. Start out with a relatively small container to allow the roots to fill out. As it grows, you may gradually increase the pot size. Give it plenty of sunlight, and a light application of a water soluble fertilizer won’t hurt. Don’t be surprised if you don’t see much growth this winter, since many plants do slow down during the winter months.

  We have a large hibiscus plant and we were wondering if you tell by looking at a leaf and flower if we have the kind that could be planted in the yard. We cut it back every year in the fall and bring it inside, but it is getting so large that it is hard to handle. Right now, we have it on the porch and it is touching the ceiling. I have been told that there is a certain kind of hibiscus that can survive the cold winter. Thanks. 

  Unfortunately, the plant you sent me is not the hardy type, but the tropical one. An easy way to tell the difference between the two types is by the leaves. The tropical leaves will be shiny and smooth, while the perennial forms will be coarse and usually hairy. If you don’t have room inside your house, you could overwinter it in a garage. You simply need to assure that it will not get below freezing.

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