(April) About four years ago we had some landscaping done and they planted a
dogwood tree in a flower bed in our yard that is underneath a big tree. The
first year it was planted it bloomed like crazy and has never bloomed again
since. It is not going to bloom again this year. Leaves are coming on it now but
there are no blooms. Our neighbor’s dogwoods are blooming. We live in Harrison,
Arkansas. What could cause this. It gets the morning sun of course through the
tree limbs but gets shade too. We put mulch in the bed each year. We have
azaleas, boxwood, hostas and a couple of other things and they do really well.
The first year you bought it, it probably already had flower buds set--thus the blooms. If the plant is root-bound in a container, it often doesn't put on rampant new top growth, so it does set blooms. Once set free in the ground, it often grows rapidly, as it establishes both roots and top-growth. Is it growing rapidly still? When it does, it often is in a juvenile stage, and doesn't bloom as much. Once it slows down, and provided it gets some sun (which it sounds like it does), it should begin to bloom annually. Dogwoods do need some light to bloom, so do check the sunlight. You may just have to be patient, but do monitor the light situation.
(April) We live in the forest and have several dogwood trees on our property as
well as a number in the woods surrounding our home. Some bloom profusely one
year and the next year have few if any blooms. Some are in full sun and others
are located in shady areas. Location does not seem to have an effect on the
number of flowers each tree has. Is there anything that we can do to help them
bloom?
Dogwoods set their flower buds in late summer. Sometimes it can take five to seven years before they mature enough to begin blooming. Once they begin, they should bloom annually. The amount of blooms can vary based on the amount of sunlight they receive and the weather conditions. If it is particularly hot and dry at the end of the summer, and they are not getting supplemental water, they may not set as many flower buds. If they are plagued with the disease powdery mildew, that can also affect the number of flower buds they set. In my opinion the ideal conditions for dogwoods are morning sun and afternoon shade, a well drained soil supplemented with organic matter. They need regular water when it is dry. They will grow well in the shade, but will not bloom in deep shade.
(April) The past
two years our white dogwoods have been full of blooms. This year there are only
a few blossoms. Is this normal or may the heat/drought in late summer last year
have caused this? We irrigated as usual last summer but the flower buds on a
young tree dried up and the leaves turned color earlier than usual. The other
dogwoods are all 20 to 35 years old and have bloomed satisfactorily every year
until now.
I have no answer for you based on weather. Last year's growing season was one of the mildest for most of us in the state. We got more than the usual rainfall, and it wasn't quite as hot. We had some of the best berry set and flower bud set ever! In fact, this spring we are reaping the results, and most blooming plants are spectacular. Did your dogwood trees take a hit from the ice a few years ago? This can weaken them, in fact, any injury can. Many dogwoods have been suffering, some even dying since then. Whatever it is, we can't blame it on the weather from last year.
(April) I have two
dogwood trees I need to transplant. One is 10 feet and the other is 5 feet, any
words to the wise so they will have a better chance for survival?
They can be moved now, but if waiting is an option, you could begin the process now, and then move them this fall when they go dormant. If you can wait, begin root pruning now. Take a straight edged shovel and make staggered cuts in the ground, roughly in the area that you would move. This should encourage roots to form in a new area, and when you move this fall, you will have a stronger root system to move. If you must move now, get as many roots as possible, mulch and water. The tree will probably wilt for a few weeks until it reestablishes itself. Pay attention to water needs all summer.
(April) A couple of
us here at Fairfield Bay are wondering what is the proper fertilizer for
dogwoods. We would prefer it in a stake form if it is possible.
I am not a big fan of fertilizer stakes, since they are a concentrated dose of fertilizer in one area. Trees have a root system that is wide spreading. If you are fertilizing the lawn, you are getting fertilizer to the tree. Any high nitrogen or complete fertilizer work well, but broadcast it, don't direct it only to the drip line.
(May) Other than color, are there different kinds of dogwoods? We have pasture
land with wild dogwoods on it, and we wanted to add more. We bought dogwoods at
a nursery but everyone is telling me they won't grow in an open field like the
wild ones do. Have I wasted my money?
Our common flowering dogwood, Cornus florida, is a native tree and probably the showiest of the flowering dogwoods. While they would prefer some afternoon shade, they have been known to grow in full sun, provided they have ample water. There are numerous other types of dogwoods besides Flowering Dogwoods. They include: Kousa dogwood - Cornus kousa; Stiff dogwood - Cornus foemina, Pagoda or alternate leaved dogwood- Cornus alternifolia; Silky dogwood - Cornus amomum; Cornelian cherry - Cornus mas; Rough leaved dogwood - Cornus drummondii, and the red and yellow twigged dogwoods. Most dogwoods are better suited as understory trees, with a bit of protection from the late afternoon sun. Most are not totally drought hardy either, but some are more resilient than others.
(May) I
live in Bella Vista and want to plant a Dogwood tree and some Azaleas in my
garden, but I will be leaving in one month for the summer. Should I plant them
now, water for a month and leave, or wait until I return in September and do it
all then?
I prefer to plant azaleas in the spring and early summer, however, no newly planted plant would survive a month without water in the summer, much less the entire summer, if we have no natural rainfall. Could you not make arrangements with a neighbor or friend to water? Another option is if you are planting in a specific area, they do sell timers that can be set on a regular hose and sprinkler, to come on regularly while you are gone. I am assuming you do not have an irrigation system in place, or you wouldn't be worrying about being gone. You can of course, plant in the fall if these watering options won't work, however if you leave every year for the summer, you either want to invest in some form of watering, or plant very drought tolerant plants-of which azaleas and dogwoods are not included.
(May) I have a 10 to 11 year old red dogwood that bloomed well three years ago,
but since then, it hasn't produced more than 3 or 4 blooms. I think I have a
scale problem. There are small black or brown hard shelled bug attached mostly
in crotches. I sprayed with oil spray in January, dumped a ton of dysyston
over roots for last 15 months, sprayed with dormant oil spray mixed with
Malathion plus as directed on label 10 days ago. I pick bunches of new insects
every afternoon since. I have a second red dogwood 40 yards away that I don't
see any bugs on & it is younger & and is always covered with blooms. Might
this be something other than scale insects? Any other suggestions?
It could be scale, but do keep in mind that once the scale dies, it stays attached. You may be getting a bit extreme in the insecticide applications. Toxicity from chemicals can also hinder growth, and thus blooms. If you don't see new signs of scale infestation, hopefully you have it cured. Shade can also be a limiting factor in blooming. To make sure you have scale, take a sample or photo to your county extension office.
(May) I have a problem with a pink dogwood and a fig tree, both young plants,
approximately 3 years old. Some leaves have a while filmy-like substance and the
leaves roll up or look folded. What do I need to do?
It sounds like you have a case of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that can be a bit tricky to correct once it sets in. Spray with a general fungicide such as Immunox, Daconil or Funginex. If the trees end up getting it every season, you may use a preventative spray in the spring, before you see it, but for now, spray two to three times at weekly intervals and see what happens.
(July) believe we have a dying dogwood tree. The top has dead leaves and some of
the limbs (3 or 4) have no leaves at all. It gets water from the sprinklers
every day, but is that not enough? Should I drip-irrigate it and if so, how
often and for how long at a time?
Dogwood trees can be attacked by a number of things -- both disease and insect. Once they get stressed, whether from storm damage, drought, too much water, or physical injury such as lawnmowers or weed eaters, this seems to make them even more susceptible. Borers are common, and should leave behind visible signs of entry -- staggered small holes in the branches or main trunk. Pruning out the deadwood as soon as it is visible, doing a good job with watering and fertilization -- keeping the tree as healthy as possible is probably all you can do at this point. Watering daily is usually not a good idea. Make sure the drainage is good -- dogwoods do not like wet feet. Shallow daily watering encourages shallow root systems. Try to put an inch to an inch 1/2 of water per week. For now, prune out what is dead and investigate a little further.
(July) I have a
dogwood tree which is slowly dying. For the last 3 years it has gotten worse
each year. It seems to lose leaves and then the branch dies and it has started
from the top of the tree. It appears that some of the leaves have something
eating them, but I'm not sure that is the whole problem. Some leaves seem to
curl out and droop. Some turn red or yellow and then fall off. We have been
spraying it lightly with Orthene.
A slow death on a dogwood tree is usually root or stem related. Rarely, will leaf-eating insects cause a tree to die. I suppose total defoliation year after year would weaken it to where something else would damage it, but that does not sound like the case. If the tree was wounded at the base with a lawnmower or weed-eater, if the soil grade has changed, if the ground is compacted or if roots have been damaged by construction, if it took a hit from ice or a dry summer, any and all of the above can lead to problems. Dogwoods have shallow root systems and can suffer easily. Check for any and all of the above. Aerate the soil if compacted, water when dry and see what happens. Often once a slow decline begins, it is hard to reverse, especially if the tree was wounded.
(August)
We have a two year old dogwood and the leaves are looking withered. The same
thing happened last year to some extent but it pulled through and bloomed this
spring. We attributed it to the hot weather and not having a large root system.
Now I have notices the leaves have holes in them as though something is eating
on it. Can you give us any suggestions as to what we can do?
Dogwoods do not like to be stressed, and would do better if they received regular applications of water. Holes in the leaves at this time of year are not something I would worry that much about, the wilting I would. Try to water when dry, and mulch the tree to maintain as much soil moisture as possible. Dogwoods that get over stressed will be more susceptible to damage from borers and other insects.