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  (April) In the middle of a row of about 15 established azaleas in my front yard, one plant has been slowly dying over the past year or so. The shrub in front of it is dying, too, and I thought I might need to submit a soil sample from this area and one from an area where the shrubs are healthy. How do I do this? I have not been able to find the instructions on the Extension website.

  I think you have the right idea. To take a soil test, get a pint of soil from the areas root zone. Since we are testing a specific site, you don't have to take multiple samples of soil and mix them together, as we would if testing the entire yard. For this, test the good area and the bad area, then compare. Take the samples to your local county extension office. You should have your results back in approximately two weeks. Also check the physical site characteristics -- drainage, rocks, low area, etc.

  (June) For the first time in 7 years, I did not plant any vegetables in my backyard garden space. Perhaps this would be a good year to "prep" the space for next year, as it is so full of grass and weeds. (I do have 1 year old asparagus at one end, and I planted thornless blackberries along the fence this spring). What is the best procedure for making this a great space next year? Do I need to till it up and cover it with black plastic, or something like that? Our first baby comes this August, (hence the weed lot in the backyard!) and we'd like to get off to a great start next spring or even earlier with cool season crops. Thanks so much.

  The best way to kill out weeds, diseases and insect larvae in a garden spot is through soil solarization. Till the garden plot where you don't have the perennial plants, then wet it thoroughly. Cover the plot with clear plastic and weight it down. Having firm contact between soil and plastic will help, then leave it covered. The heat should build up and kill out the organisms. This fall, you may want to plant a cover crop such as vetch, oats, for tilling in before planting next spring, or just leave the spot covered. Congratulations on the baby!

  I have a flower garden that has heavy clay soil, except where I have worked peat, composted manure, etc. into it over the past five years. The clay must be a mile deep--it takes over each year. Rather than buying a lot more of the same things I’ve been using, can I mix in chopped up pine straw, dry leaves and old chimney ashes to lighten up the soil? I’ve even thought about getting some fishing worms and letting them help out. I grow bearded iris, peonies, Japanese iris and mint in the space already, and would work all the new mixture around these existing plantings. 

  The more light organic matter you add, the better you will be. Chopped up leaves and pine needles would be great, and shouldn’t alter the pH too much for these plants. The main plants I am concerned with are the bearded iris and peony. They need to be planted so shallow, that I am worried you will bury them too deep. Think about lifting them up and amending the soil then replanting. Gypsum can also help to lighten a heavy soil, without altering pH.

  I have a raised bed in a shady area where nothing seems to grow well, not even Hostas, Lilly of the Valley, or impatiens. This bed is underneath a tall pine tree and someone suggested that nothing grows well under a pine tree. I was planning on turning the soil in this bed, adding a lot of compost, and replanting the perennials. Is this a lost cause because of the Pine tree?

  I would suggest having your soil tested. It is possible the pH is so acidic, that it is causing problems. If you test the soil, it will give you a liming recommendation. By liming, if needed, and adding compost or other organic matter, most shade perennials should do fine. Pine trees are often easier to grow plants under than many other shade trees, since their canopies tend to me more open and allow at least filtered sunlight in.

  Help!! We are at the end of our rope with a problem we can’t solve. It has to do with a load of topsoil we ordered. It is so taken up with tiny roots that you can hardly dig in it, much less grow a garden. We were told the roots are hardwood roots, and we have tried various methods to get rid of it, from lime, plastic covering, etc. Yet it continues to grow. Everything we planted last year dried up and died and we’re sure it was from these phantom roots. How can anything continue to grow without the sustenance of the mother tree? If you can give us any help on this, we would appreciate it.

  Wow! What a question. Did the roots come in the soil when you purchased it or did they appear after putting it out? If they appeared later, it is possible that once there was decent soil to grow in, your surrounding trees began sending up feeder roots. If the roots were present at purchase, I would contact whoever you bought the soil from and get a replacement, or at least visit with them regarding what it is. I totally agree with you that roots should not be able to continue growing without the addition of top growth. There should be an accompanying plant somewhere. Further investigation is needed, and I would visit with your county agent to send in a sample to our diagnostic lab. If they grew in from surrounding trees, some type of physical barrier would be needed around the garden, or it would be a reoccurring problem.

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