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  (March) I need your help. We have cut down most of our red-tips because of the fungus. I have fought it for so long and now it has spread to all of them and we had so many. Now we want to replace them and we don't know what to put there. We would like something that grows well with no disease problems. I thought you might have some suggestions.

  Redtop photenias have really been hit hard by the leaf spot fungus and are dying across the south. You are wise to stop fighting it, and replace. There are numerous options. You can use Nelly R. Stephens holly, Foster Holly, Elaeagnus, Green Giant Arborvitae, winter honeysuckle, and cherry laurel, just to name a few. Visit with your local nursery and look at the plants, and see which ones you like best.

  (March) We have moved into a new subdivision. Unfortunately, the developers placed all the utilities pipes in the front yards. Two green stumps about 8 inches in diameter and 18 inches high and a green box about 18 by 18 by 18 inches. What can I plant that will hide them from the street but not be a hedge? Do you know if I'm allowed to plant in front of them? This is the ugliest thing.

  Check with your neighborhood association and/or utility companies to see if there are any regulations regarding planting, but I would think it would improve the site to cover them up. However, simply planting around these pipes may cover them up, but it may still look a little unusual to have a few shrubs standing alone in the front yard. Consider trying to create a diversion bed with a grouping of shrubs, perennials, annuals and some mulch. Try to make it look as natural as possible, and not simply a plant hiding a pipe.

  (March) I am desperate. My father-in-law is moving from Waynesboro, MS (south) back to LA due to the loss of his wife. Her yard is the most wonderful garden of beautiful flowers, shrubs, and trees. I've brought several potted plants home over the years but now that the place is about to become a wonderful memory for me I want to get as many "yard" plantings as I can. I know that February is a prime month for digging up and transferring plants. Are there any precautions I should take?

  This is an excellent time to move plants from one location to another, if they are currently growing in the same area. If you are moving them from a more southern environment, you may want to wait a few more weeks. These plants may be in a more advanced state of growth in the south, and might suffer winter damage, if you place them outside here, where it is colder. When you do move them, the key is to protect the root system during the move. Wrap the root ball in burlap, sheets, or some-such fabric, and try to avoid exposure to cold weather or drying winds. The tops will be more winter hardy than the roots. For those plants that may be too large to move, consider taking cuttings. Not all plants will root readily now, but you won't be out anything, and you may have good results. The cuttings should be no larger than three to four inches. Wrap the cuttings in a moist paper towel, and put them in a plastic bag, until you get home and can get them in soil.

  (May) I want to plant some shrubs that will soon be a privacy barrier between my home and the neighbor's. There is a small ditch that runs along the boundary of our properties. I will be planting them on my side of the ditch. What rapidly growing shrub should I ask for at the nursery? How far apart should I plant them in order for them to merge together? Is it too late to plant them this spring? Will I be causing a problem with regards to the ditch and drainage? How far from the ditch should I plant them?

  There are numerous options, and they also depend on how tall you want the mature plants. Nellie Stevens Holly, Elaeagnus, Green Giant Arborvitae, cherry laurel, and East Palatka holly are all good choices for sun to partial shade. For shadier sites you could use Wax Myrtle, Cleyera or Illicium. Spacing will vary by the plant you choose. A general rule would be four to five feet apart if you allow them to grow together. Look for the mature size and width of the plants, and then space accordingly both between plants and in distance away from the ditch to allow for canopy spread. It should not hurt the drainage in the ditch. Since most plants today come as container grown plants, you can actually plant twelve months out of the year. The later you plant, however, the more critical water will be.

  (May) We have a small area that we need a plant/shrub that grows tall but only about 15-18 inches around. We have been told that a Forester or Forrester Holly would do good there. We have looked on the internet but unable to find anything about this shrub so there may be another name for it. Have you ever heard of this shrub/tree? I understand that it has holly type leaves with the little points and has red berries.

  I think the plant you are referring to is a Foster Holly (-Ilex X attenuata is the Latin name.) While this plant does have the capability of becoming quite tall, with a more narrow growth habit, 18 inches is a bit of a stretch. The only plant that would stay that narrow that I know of is the Sky Pencil or Sky Rocket Holly, Ilex crenata 'Sky Pencil'. It is very narrow in growth habit, and maximum height would be 6-8 feet, but it won't get there overnight. Another option would be to espalier a larger shrub or look at some type of evergreen vine to give you some screening in such a narrow spot.

  (September) Something is stripping my bushes. It first started with gardenias and now mostly it is my yellow Euonymus. The ends are snipped off, leaving big holes and some entire sides are gone. If I didn't know better I would think somebody is cutting them with a pruning shear because it is such a smooth cut and at an angle like they are pruned. It happens at night and there are no clippings left on the ground. At first I thought squirrels were cutting them off and using them for nesting material but I have trapped most of them. Its to high for rabbits and I have no deer around. Mostly it is the outer limbs that are tender but some are lower and is actually a woody stick. I see no leaves that are half eaten like it would be a bug. Could it be some kind of worm or insect that I could spray or some other animal that I am not thinking of?

  As much damage as you seem to be getting, I would be surprised that an insect could do that much in one night, but I guess anything is possible. I would consider setting the alarm for 1 or 2 am, and going outside with a flashlight to see what you can find. Slugs are active at night, but usually leave behind a silvery trail. There are other animals, such as raccoons, groundhogs and deer that can feast at night, so you may want to join their party and see what is going on.

  (November) I have a west/southwest facing brick house. It sits high on a raised lot and for that reason has a large expanse of exposed brick. What would you suggest as a cover. I had English ivy on a brick front in Kansas City years ago and when we decided to remove it we had very unsightly residue where the ivy had attached itself. It was virtually impossible to remove. Had Pyracantha on a Phoenix house which we anchored to the house with stick ons with ties. Would you use a trellis or let something cling. A trellis would have to be 15' by 15' or so to cover the area in question.

  Does it have to be a groundcover or vine? Could you not use foundation plantings that have height that could cover the exposed brick? That would not only cover the exposed area, but soften the house as well. How large a bed you build will depend on the size of the yard, but I would prefer that option to a vine on the wall, which will require some maintenance.

  I am trying to find a shrub (preferably flowering) that will grow in heavy shade. I have tried several but they have done poorly. Do you have a recommendation?

  There are several, including Mahonia, Pieris, Calycanthus, Leucothoe and Otto Lukens Laurel. All of these bloom and perform well in the shade. Some other considerations to keep in mind when gardening in the shade are water needs. While water doesn’t evaporate as quickly, trees compete very well for water and nutrients. Also, make sure that you aren’t planting the shrubs too deep.

  Which is better for watering plants, well water or city water? We are being connected to Conway’s water system, but may keep our well for outside use. Our well water is heavy in iron, and does leave deposits. It also has a strong sulfur smell. With major filtering it’s ok for home use, but I’ve noticed neighbors that water near the house have brown deposits on the bricks. Since the filtering is expensive, we would probably disconnect it for outside use. The city water is very good for personal use but of course has chlorine and other additives to restrict bacterial growth. Using the well water would cost less, but for watering young trees, shrubs, and flowers which would be better in the long run? (Conway)

  You may think water is water, but that isn’t the case. Depending on where you live, even with city water there may be high levels of sodium in the water, which can over time cause problems with plants. The city of Little Rock has great water quality, but to know for sure what the levels are where you live, check with your local water utility. They should have a complete breakdown of pH and sodium levels. The same applies to well water. The sulfur and iron content won’t hurt your plants, unless heavy deposits build up on the foliage which can break down photosynthesis and lead to other problems. Avoiding overhead water can solve that problem. But what is the water’s pH and salt content. For $30, you can take a pint of water to your local county extension office and have it tested. Then compare the two and decide which you want to use.

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