Shrubs - Azaleas (page 2)
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  (April) Can you please tell me when to trim my azaleas back. I know they should be trimmed shortly after they bloom but when is best and is it ok to shape them with electric shears?

  I think you have the right idea. To take a soil test, get a pint of soil from the areas root zone. Since we are testing a specific site, you don't have to take multiple samples of soil and mix them together, as we would if testing the entire yard. For this, test the good area and the bad area, then compare. Take the samples to your local county extension office. You should have your results back in approximately two weeks. Also check the physical site characteristics -- drainage, rocks, low area, etc.

  (April) In the middle of a row of about 15 established azaleas in my front yard, one plant has been slowly dying over the past year or so. The shrub in front of it is dying, too, and I thought I might need to submit a soil sample from this area and one from an area where the shrubs are healthy. How do I do this? I have not been able to find the instructions on the Extension website.

  I think you have the right idea. To take a soil test, get a pint of soil from the areas root zone. Since we are testing a specific site, you don't have to take multiple samples of soil and mix them together, as we would if testing the entire yard. For this, test the good area and the bad area, then compare. Take the samples to your local county extension office. You should have your results back in approximately two weeks. Also check the physical site characteristics--drainage, rocks, low area, etc.

  (April) A nursery was telling me something about Encore azaleas - a relatively new type of azalea that supposedly blooms three times a year (spring, summer and fall). Are there any weaknesses or oddities that one needs to watch out with these? Any tips for a recreational gardener?

  I wouldn't say they are three season bloomers. Typically they bloom spring and fall, with a staggered bloom off and on during the rest of the growing season. They do give you two seasons of interest, but are often not as full of blooms in the spring, as the spring-only plants. Their fall bloom is usually fairly reliable. Not all varieties are hardy in the northern third of the state, but I do think they are a nice addition to the landscape, and you have some good colors to choose from. They need the same conditions as other azaleas, well-drained soil, acidic pH and a rich site. Water when dry and give them at least three to four hours of sunlight a day. Filtered sun or morning sun is best.

  (April) We are moving to a home where there are established azalea plants in front of the house. They are very beautiful, but they are rather tall and the area close to the ground has little foliage. It is my opinion they would look better if they were shorter and fuller. I do not know how to care for them, (new mulch needs to be placed everywhere). We would like the azaleas as well as the holly bushes behind them to be shorter which will require significant pruning. My question then is regarding pruning. How much is too much? I'm thinking that if I cut them back too far I will ruin them. Also if I do any pruning at all, when should it be done and what should I expect at the next blooming season?

  Broadleaf evergreens can be cut back severely without damaging them, since they have dormant buds on the old wood. Even if you prune with no foliage left, they should sprout out again. The time to prune the azaleas would be immediately following flowering. I would go ahead and do the hollies at the same time. Follow up your pruning with an application of azalea fertilizer, and keep them watered this summer. You can cut the plants back by one half or more, but this is not something I would do annually. It may take them a year or more to fill out to the size you want, but they should bounce back fairly quickly. You should still have flowers next year, since they set flower buds at the end of the growing season, and by then, you should have a fully green bush. They may not be as showy the first season, but by the next year they will be fine.

  (April) My azaleas have tiny black specks on back of leaves and the front of the leaves are pale. what do I need to do?

  Any damage that is visible on your azalea leaves is more than likely a carry-over from last season. It sounds like lacebug damage, but we also saw a bit of a fungal leaf spot last season too. I wouldn't be too concerned about old damage, but do pay attention this season as new leaves appear following flowering. The old damaged leaves should fall off. If you see spots or damage on new leaves, then take action. Lacebug damage can be prevented by several insecticides.

  (April) I moved my azaleas last fall. Of the five that I moved, the three in the middle are blooming nicely this spring. The two on each end of the row that I planted are much larger and are not blooming. They seem to be struggling. They look dry and have some dark black on their leaves. I can't decide if they are sick, need water, or if they will just need one more year to bloom after the move due to the fact that they are larger. What would you suggest for my two sick large azaleas?

  The larger the plant, the slower the recovery from transplanting. Don't judge how well they do the year you transplant, since they should be trying to re-establish themselves. Make sure they have ample water this growing season, mulch them, and lightly fertilize after bloom. It is not unusual to see a bit of a struggle the year of transplant, but they should show signs of recovery this season.

  (May) I have fifty azaleas in a group planting that were all damaged by lacebugs last year. I applied Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub insecticide this spring. They bloomed nicely and seemed improved, but now I notice several plants have some leaves that are deformed, extremely thick looking, curled, like a growth of some kind on them. Could this be leaf rollers? What can I do about it?

  The problem is azalea leaf gall and has nothing to do with any insecticides or other products that you may have used. Azalea leaf gall is a fungus disorder that occurs in cool, wet springs--which we have had. The problem looks much worse than it actually is. The swollen plant tissues or "galls" are made up of abnormal plant tissue. Infected leaf tissue is usually pale green in color and look almost like candle wax has been poured on them. Later in the season, a white spore layer covers the infected plant parts, and actually reinfects the plants for next season. Galls eventually turn brown and harden as the season progresses. When you see the problem, simply snap off the damaged tissue and dispose of it. If you can control the problem before the white spores form, hopefully you will have less of a problem next season. But then again, if next spring is warm and dry, the problem won't be as severe anyway. Sprays are not needed.

  (May) I live in Conway, and a month or so ago I bought two Azaleas that were just beginning to bud and bloom. I planted them in mostly shade; some early morning and late afternoon sun. They went through a beautiful bloom but now that the blooms have dropped, a lot of the leaves are turning a yellow / orange color. This is my first attempt at these bushes and wanted to know what is causing the leaves to turn and what should I do?

  Make sure the site is well drained. Conway is somewhat known for drainage issues, and azaleas don't like to stand in water. Plus, we have had more than our fair share lately. You may want to dig a hole near the plant at approximately the same depth and see if water is standing in it. Solve the problem, if it is. It is not unusual for a plant to go through a slight transition period after planting, but it should be relatively short-lived. If the leaves that are yellowing are primarily at the base of the stems--the older leaves, it is not as worrisome as if it is the entire bush that is yellowing. A light application of fertilizer can be added now, but go sparingly. The main thing we want this year is root establishment and we will worry about growth later.

  (May) I live in Bella Vista and want to plant a Dogwood tree and some Azaleas in my garden, but I will be leaving in one month for the summer. Should I plant them now, water for a month and leave, or wait until I return in September and do it all then?

  I prefer to plant azaleas in the spring and early summer, however, no newly planted plant would survive a month without water in the summer, much less the entire summer, if we have no natural rainfall. Could you not make arrangements with a neighbor or friend to water? Another option is if you are planting in a specific area, they do sell timers that can be set on a regular hose and sprinkler, to come on regularly while you are gone. I am assuming you do not have an irrigation system in place, or you wouldn't be worrying about being gone. You can of course, plant in the fall if these watering options won't work, however if you leave every year for the summer, you either want to invest in some form of watering, or plant very drought tolerant plants-of which azaleas and dogwoods are not included.

  (May) I have an azalea that I have had for probably 20 years. It did not bloom this year or last year. Somehow I find that strange, since I have grown them in areas with shade to sun. It has gotten quite large. Should I cut it back or is it hopeless?

  Typically the reason an azalea does not bloom is if it is in too deep of shade or if you are pruning it at the wrong time. Azaleas set their flower buds in late summer to early fall. I recommend no pruning past June, or at the latest early July. Pruning after that can hinder new growth, and reduce flower set. Even though azaleas like a somewhat shady location, they do need some sunlight to bloom. You may need to limb up some trees. If the azaleas are overgrown, prune soon, and follow that up with an azalea fertilizer.

  (June) We will be remodeling our home this summer. I have azaleas planted where the construction work will be done. Can they be moved? Some, but not all, of the azaleas have been in their current location for twenty years. Can they, too, be moved? They are healthy plants, and I would like to keep them. What do I need to do to prepare them for a move?

  I would try to get them lifted and transplanted now before the weather really gets hot. If you plan to relocate them back after construction, simply build a holding bed in the shade. Till up the soil, add some compost and basically "heel" them in. You place the plants close together slightly in the ground and slightly above, then mulch heavily. Keep well watered. Azaleas have shallow, fibrous root systems, so they are easy to move, but moving plants during the heat is not ideal. Pay close attention to water needs all summer. Don't be alarmed if the plants wilt daily for awhile, but get them moved as soon as you can. Of course, the older the plant, the tougher the transition, but it is possible with good care that they will do fine. No fertilizer this season. Replant in a permanent location as soon as it is feasible.

  (June) I planted a new bright orange azalea this Spring. It is approximately 18 inches tall now and bloomed really well for it's first season. I'd like to move it to a better location. Is it okay to move it now or should I wait until Fall?

  Since you just planted it this spring, I think it would be fine to move it now. The root system should not have spread out too much yet. The sooner you get it moved, the sooner it can set down roots. It may wilt daily for a while until it re-establishes itself, but water wisely and mulch it and it should recover. Make sure the location is well drained, and you don't keep the soil too wet--something that has been tricky thus far this year!

  (July) What is the latest you can prune azaleas and have them bloom next year?

  Realistically, you could still prune and have flowers next year. If the monsoon season continues, you should still have new growth and plant recovery. Traditionally, I prefer to prune as soon as flowering is finished, and I don't like to prune past June 30. That would insure the plants are given enough time to put on new foliage and growth before they turn around and set flower buds in late summer through mid fall. If it is really critical that you prune, do so ASAP and lightly fertilize when you finish to aid in plant recovery.

  (September) Last year, late in the year, you suggested a chemical to put on azaleas to help protect them against the "rust" leaf color in the summer. I did get some and used it in late February, and my azaleas have been absolutely perfect all year. I have forgotten the name of it -- and thought perhaps I would recognize it, but so far -- and maybe it isn't on the shelves this early -- I haven't recognized it. Sure would appreciate if you would sometime when you have room in your excellent column to list it again. I promise I will list it and save it this time.

  I would be happy to. The product we talked about to prevent lacebugs on azaleas is Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub Insecticide. This product should be applied in late February through mid March. The plant takes up the chemical through the root system, and prevents insect attack for a full season. We have had excellent results in azaleas on lacebugs and it also works well on gardenias for whiteflies, and on hollies and euonymus for scale. It is best used as a preventative tool.

  (October) When should one fertilize azaleas?

  Fertilize azaleas after they bloom next spring. For now, only water if it gets dry. Their flower buds should be set or setting for next seasons display, and we don't want to encourage any more growth this season.

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