Perennials - Hibiscus
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  (February) I was listen listening last week to your radio show, and heard you say something about cutting back the hibiscus. I moved our plant into the house this fall, and it has pretty much stopped losing any leave and has new growth coming out on most branches. Do I need to cut it back? How far from the end of the branches? I think it is doing very well, but certainly want it to bloom again during spring and summer.

  By now most of our plants have acclimated to the poorer growing conditions indoors, and have shed most of the leaves they will, and are beginning to show signs of life again. Hibiscus blooms on the new growth. When these plants are grown in containers they are limited by just how much size they can handle. If you don't cut them back, they often don't produce as much new growth, and therefore don't bloom as well in consecutive years. Unless you have the braided trunk forms, cut them back fairly severely--at least by one third to one half. This should encourage new growth. Begin to lightly fertilize, give them as much sunlight as possible but wait until April to move them outdoors. If you wait until spring to prune them back, you delay the recovery time and eventual first blooms, but it won't hurt the plant.

  (February) My husband and I are relatively new gardeners. We have a hibiscus in our yard and we were wondering if we should completely cut it back before spring? What is the proper care for this plant? It was absolutely gorgeous this past year.

  Hopefully it was the perennial hardy hibiscus, and not one of the tropicals, but assuming it was, hardy hibiscus plants die completely to the ground each year after a frost. Those tall woody stalks that now remain, are totally dead, so they can be cut off. Hibiscus plants like warm soil, so they can be a bit slow to sprout in the spring, so be patient. The main ingredients for success include sun and water.

  (April) Last year we planted a couple of Flare Rose Mallow (Hibiscus x'Flare') None of them came back this year. The hibiscus is listed for 10 to 20 degrees F but the nursery assured us they would survive the winter. What happened? The nursery has a 1 year guarantee, should we dig up the plants and get a refund?

  You may be assuming they are dead too soon. The perennial hibiscus doesn't get actively growing until the soil temperature warms up. Mine is just poking up some tiny sprouts now. So be patient. I would give it a couple more weeks and see if you don't see signs of life, and then visit with your nurseryman.

  (July) I live in Warren, and we have many hardy hibiscus and Texas star hibiscus. They are both infested with some insect which strips the leaves, leaving only the veins. They are continuing to bloom as if nothing had happened. I have noticed many small black flying insects which have an orange spot on their back. Are they the culprits, and how could I kill whatever the offenders? My tropical hibiscus plants are not bothered this way.

  There is both a beetle and a caterpillar that can do a number on hardy hibiscus plants. While it does make the plants look less than appealing, it really does little to damage their hardiness. If the damage is so bad that you can't live with it, there are several remedies to try. It sounds to me like you have the beetle problem--sprays with liquid sevin or permethrin can help. You can also use the systemic Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub insecticide as the plants begin growing next spring. For those with the caterpillar problem, you can also use Bacillus thuringiensis or BT, Dipel or Thuricide. Whatever pesticide you use, opt for one that mixes with water, I would avoid the dusts, since that also can take away from the aesthetics. If you are using the plants to attract butterflies, then avoid the insecticides and live with the lacelike leaves-tell people that's the look you were going for!

  (August) I planted some hardy hibiscus last fall which were blooming at the time. Early this year I cut them back 4" from soil level. As they are blooming now, the strong winds are breaking the fragile branches off. I've noticed others which are in a bush form with several branches for support from the winds. What and when should I do for developing a stronger plant?? Appreciate a rapid response.

  Why did you cut them back after they were growing? Hardy hibiscus plants die to the ground in the winter after a killing frost. When new growth appears in the spring, we allow it to grow through blooming. My guess, is by cutting the branches after growth had begun this encouraged branching of those branches. It also possibly delayed flowering, since most hardy hibiscus begin blooming in late June. Each time we make a pruning cut, you typically get at least two sprouts at that point. This gave you more branches, and possibly more flowers, but the wood is not as large or strong as it would have been with one branch. At the end of this season, you can cut the plants back, but avoid cutting them once growth begins in the spring.

  (August) Could you please help to identify a plant for me? The plant grows to about 5 feet tall and has seed pods like a small cotton boll. It has about a 5 or six inch red bloom. I have a hardy hibiscus and this is not it or at least it doesn't look like the hibiscus plants I've seen. This plant has been around for a long time and is very heat tolerant. It had a common name when I was growing up-something like morning star, maybe, or some kind of star. The blossoms are pointed like a five point star not like the round hibiscus blossom. I'm not sure if it is a perennial or an annual. The leaves are more pointed than the hibiscus. The growth pattern is bushy. It grows with multiple stalks and comes back every year in Arkansas. I have wanted to plant it in my yard but was afraid that it would suffer winter kill since I am in zone 5. I have seeds and I plan to start it in a pot and see what happens. However, I would like to know the name.

  There are numerous types of hardy hibiscus. The leaf shape and flower shape does vary. From your description, I think you have the Texas Star hibiscus, which is Hibiscus coccineus. It produces a bright red flower, and the foliage is very cut, slightly reminiscent of marijuana. The plant should be a hardy perennial in zone 5. When you have a killing frost, add some extra mulch for protection, and be patient for new growth in the spring, since it does like warm soil conditions for growth.

  (August) I have collected seed from my hardy hibiscus and four o'clocks. When and how do I plant them?

  For the four-o'clocks, you may want to go ahead and scatter some seeds now. The plants won't have a chance to bloom this season, but hopefully there is enough growing season left for them to establish a root system and come back next year. You can also scatter some seeds out next spring after frost. On the hardy hibiscus, save the seeds to either start indoors in late January through February or plant them outside in late April. Soak the seeds overnight before sowing. They like warm soil to germinate. Don't expect flowers in the first growing season.

  (September) I have just found my first Confederate Rose bloom, one with a triple bloom. I also have some hardy hibiscus with a few late blooms. They are all filled with a very small, thin, black bug. What can I spray for these? They are just like some bugs I saw a few years ago in peony blooms. I never got rid of those bugs. Can you help?

  This late in the season, I wouldn’t be inclined to start a heavy spray program, especially on the late blooming hardy hibiscus. The traditional hardy or perennial hibiscus -- H. moscheutos is nearing the end of its season. Enjoy the few late blooms. These plants are often attacked by numerous leaf eating insects -- both beetles and caterpillars. The resulting damage isn't pretty, nor does it hurt the plant. If you have the issue earlier in the season each year, controls may be warranted. Liquid sevin, orthene or Bayer Advanced Tree & Shrub insecticide have all proven to be effective, but used early. For the confederate rose -- Hibiscus mutabilis, they are beginning to bloom and should continue through October. Leaf eating insects aren't usually a problem, and rarely are spray programs needed.

  (October) When is good time to divide and transplant cotton plant hibiscus? Is compost best to plant cotton plant hibiscus in & do they do best in full sun or shade? When is good time to divide and transplant peony? Is compost best to plant peony in and do they do best in full sun or shade?

  I assume you mean hardy hibiscus, since I have never heard them called cotton plant hibiscus. They are in the same family however, and thrive in hot weather. I would dig and divide them next spring as they emerge. They prefer a full sun location with ample moisture. They like plenty of organic matter, so should do well with the compost. Peonies should be divided now, and planted shallowly in a well amended site in full sun. Don't be surprised if they don't bloom for a year or two after the move.

  (November) I got a gorgeous hardy hibiscus in mid-October at a local retailer, marked down to $5! It's been pruned into a rather sturdy tree, but we were hesitant to plant it so late in the year, so we left it in the pot. Now I have it in the kitchen in front of a window. Should we try to keep it going like a house plant this winter then plant in outside in the spring, or what?

  If it is the perennial hardy hibiscus, it should have been planted in the ground. After a killing frost, they die back to the ground for the year, reappearing only when the soil warms up again. I wonder, however, if yours is truly a hardy hibiscus, as I can't imagine it being gorgeous in October, nor pruned into a sturdy tree. Perennial hibiscus have the bulk of their blooms in June and July, and by October, it is beginning a decline. If the plant is actually a tropical hibiscus--which could have still been gorgeous with blooms in October, and could have been formed into a small ornamental tree, leave it where it is for the winter, as it would not overwinter outdoors. Move it outside for the summer months, but plan on overwintering it indoors annually.

  (November) My mom has a butterfly bush that she is needing to move. When is the best time to move it and cut it back? Also, she wants to plant a hibiscus. When should she plant it?

  Buddleia, or butterfly bush should be pruned back hard every year before new growth begins in late February. That would be an ideal time to move it as well. I assume she wants to plant a hardy hibiscus, and your best selections would be next growing season, in late spring or early summer.

  (December) You had an article in the Democrat about 2 months ago about how to care for your hibiscus this winter. I cut out the article and misplaced it. When did you say to prune them? Thanks for any information you can give me.

  Hibiscus plants typically shed foliage in the winter indoors, with lower humidity and light conditions. I don't recommend cutting them back until January or February. By then, they should be acclimated to the inside conditions and can be pruned severely. They bloom on new growth so you want to prune them by half to two thirds to encourage new growth. Move them back outside after all chances of frost have passed, and begin a good fertilization program.

  I was given a plant called a "Lone Star" hibiscus. Its’ leaves look a bit like a marijuana plant (to my neighbor’s dismay). The flowers are red and star shaped. What zone is this plant hardy in? Last year it overwintered in my garage, but I would like to leave it in the yard. Please advise.

  The Lone Star or Texas Star hibiscus is hardy at least through zone 7 if not even zone 6. It is a great plant for our gardens. It will die completely to the ground during the winter, and reappear in the late spring, once the soil has warmed up. It grows relatively tall–seven feet or more in height each growing season. Planting it outside may be tricky now, especially if you moved it into the garage already. If you do choose to plant outside, do it soon, and mulch heavily. You don’t have an established root system which could be a problem depending on the type of winter we have.

  I am looking for a hardy red flowering hibiscus. My family had one 40-50 years ago in Augusta. I don’t remember winter bothering it, I mainly remember the blooms which were large, trumpet-shaped and attracted hummingbirds. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen them in some older areas in Russellville, but I can’t remember where. I don’t know what to ask for at garden centers. I don’t think it is a mallow or the tropical hibiscus that are available here. Can you help me?

  There are numerous varieties of hardy hibiscus. The one I believe you are referring to is the cutleaf variety, Hibiscus coccineus, commonly called Scarlet Rose Mallow or Texas star. It grows six to eight feet tall and produces deep red funnel shaped flowers five to six inches wide. It blooms mid summer on. It is a native plant that grows in wet lands. Check with your local garden centers or with those who specialize in native plants. An improved hybrid cross is Lord Baltimore.

  I was given a cutting of this plant in the spring. The lady stated it was a confederate rose. I would like to know what you think. This bush or plant is now approximately 6 feet tall and five feet around. The largest leaves are about 12 inches across. My husband and I are new to gardening and retirement and want to learn as much as we can. It has a beautiful pink bloom. Hope you can help.

  The plant in question is commonly called a confederate rose. It is Hibiscus mutabilis, a fall blooming, hardy hibiscus. The plant can grow up to 15 feet or more in height in one growing season. It will die back to the ground, but many people take cuttings from it in the fall before it gets frozen back. It blooms with double pink, "rose-like" blooms, usually in October in central Arkansas. I am growing it for the first time this year, and mine is loaded with buds--I can’t wait for the blooms.

  The hibiscus plant has a million seeds fall from it, yet ever year only the original plant comes back. My question is, why do new plants not grow from these seeds where they fall, and can I pick up the seeds and plant them myself to grow new flowers?

  Hardy hibiscus plants do have an abundance of seeds. They can multiply from the seeds, but sometimes the seeds are a bit tricky to germinate. They have a hard outer seed coat which needs to either be sanded lightly with sandpaper, or soaked in warm water for a day or two before sowing. They can be started indoors with artificial light–making sure the soil temperature stays warm, or they can be direct sowed outdoors in late April when the soil begins to warm up.

  A friend who moved away last year, gave me some seeds of a favorite plant of hers. I planted them and they are blooming now, but I don’t know what they are. I have enclosed a picture for you. The leaves are hairy and almost heart shaped, and the plants are about four feet tall. They have maroon flowers the size of a dinner plate. What are they and will they come back next year from seed or must I replant them? 

  The plant in question is a hardy or perennial hibiscus. Once established, they come back each year from the root system, typically growing taller and more bushy each year. Although they do form fairly woody stalks during the growing season, they die completely back to the ground in the winter, following the first killing frost. Cut them back then, and be patient next spring, since they don’t sprout until the soil temperature warms up. Save seeds for other plantings or to share with friends.

  When should I cut back my hardy hibiscus? They are turning brown now. Should I wait for a killing frost, or should I go ahead and cut them off now?

  By all means, cut the plants back now. Whenever your perennials begin to decline, cut them off. You don’t have to wait for a killing frost, but after one, you need to clean up if you haven’t before. By the time a perennial begins to decline, it has finished its growth cycle, and leaving the ugly foliage isn’t adding anything to the plant, and is taking away from your landscape.

  I live in the town of Eudora. Last week I set a hibiscus plant on the Northwest side of my house. I was told later that they attract snakes. I would like to know if this is true. I've lived here twenty-five years and only seen three snakes in all that time. I can't deal with snakes, and if it is true, I will have to pull it up. Please let me know. Thanks.

  This is a new one for me. I have never known hibiscus to attract snakes. Ground cover plants can create a nice environment for snakes--cool and moist. Unruly brush piles, ditto. But a blooming hibiscus? Possibly they are thinking of the moist, swampy environment that is surrounding the marsh mallow --wild hibiscus. I have had both tropical and hardy hibiscus plants for years, and never have I seen a snake near either.

  I removed the seeds from my giant seven foot high hibiscus bush. The flowers get as large as a dinner plate! Can I plant the seeds? How? The grass and weeds in the bed are overwhelming. How do I prepare the foundation for next season?

  You have two options: one is wait and plant the seeds outside after all chances of frost have passed. Or you can start the seeds indoors in January. The seeds should be soaked for several days prior to planting. If you plant indoors, bottom heat helps warm the soil. You also need a light source for the seedlings. If you start them indoors, you may have flowers the first growing season. If you start them outside, you will have foliage the first year, and flowers starting the second season. Remember, that hardy hibiscus form woody stalks during the growing season, but die completely back to the ground during the winter. Clean up the area well after a killing frost, removing as much of the grass and debris as possible, then mulch. Hopefully, that will help with the grass.

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