Insects - General Information
Back to Insects

  (March) We have approximately 150 salmon azaleas in our yard. When in bloom, they are breathtaking. Last summer we had a problem with insects. We sprayed and treated without results. I took a branch of one of the plants to the County Cooperative Service office and was quickly told we needed to treat for "whiteflies" and I should ask for "Orthene". We were able to get the insecticide and as instructed treated for three days. After a few days the "whiteflies" were still flying. We treated again and again and again for the three day regiment. After a few treatments we were not able to get the same treatment from the local store so I called around and found the same Orthene. When I went to purchase the insecticide, I discussed the problem with the nursery owner and was told I should treat for longer than three days, probably six to nine days regiment to get in control. We did this, we sprayed daily for nine days, again without results. Some days the plants looked good and there seemed to be fewer "whiteflies" flying, but over the course of treatment, the leaves turned brownish-red like leaves changing in the fall. I knew this should not be happening, usually the leaves are green all year. I fear that we have lost over 90% of our plants. the leaves are still brownish-red and look very unhealthy. Should I go ahead and remove the plants or wait until spring and see how they look?

  First of all, you should not have been spraying daily with Orthene. Orthene is a systemic insecticide, the plants take it up and then insects will feed on the leaves and begin to die. You will not see overnight results, but in time the insects should slow down. Weekly applications should be made, not daily. Always read and follow the label directions. I do think you may have a little toxicity in the foliage -- the mottled yellow and red foliage looks bad. However the overall bronze foliage can be normal winter color for many red and pink flowering azaleas. I would allow them an opportunity to bloom and grow this spring, before considering replacing them. The foliage should regreen. If you get insect problems again, take a more cautious approach. Somehow timing got confused. I am sure what was meant, was that you should spray a minimum of three applications -- at weekly or ten day intervals -- not daily. If the problem persists, you may have to extend the spray schedule, but again not daily. Read the label and follow that guideline. You may also want to try a different insecticide in between -- resmethrin is a good whitefly spray. Monitor your plants closely this spring, and catch any problems as they get started. Keep in mind that many gardeners take the approach that if a little is good, a lot is better, but it doesn't work that way with gardening. It is better to err on the side of too little than too much.

  (March) I enjoy growing a large variety of squashes, pumpkins, melons, gourds, cucumbers. Last season, as the summer went on, my plants were hammered by insects (stink bugs and borer beetles.) By the end of the season I sprayed on a weekly basis but could never control the insects and I lost my last plantings of the season before they could produce. How can I effectively control these insects?

  Insects do build up all season, and the later in the gardening season we get, the harder stink bugs are to kill. The key is to work on controlling the insects early, and keeping the plants healthy. To start, you can use a granular insecticide tilled into the soil to catch any soil born insects. You can lightly wrap the stems of the plants to prevent vine borers, or keep them dusted with sevin -- avoid getting this product near the flowers. You can also try products with Permethrin or organic gardeners can try sabadilla dust. The key is controlling these early, so that they don't build up to large numbers.

  (December) I have kept your article on azaleas bugs. I have a lot of southern wood ferns with the azaleas, will the spray in the spring after blooming hurt the fern? The front beds are just beautiful with both and look so cool.

  Ferns can be sensitive to many pesticides, so read the labels thoroughly before using any products. There is a new product called Bayer Advanced Tree and Shrub insecticide which can be used once in February or early March, and is supposed to give you coverage for 12 months. This may be easier on the ferns than regular sprays of Orthene. But, read the label first to see what it says about ferns.

Back to Insects