Fruits & Nuts - Fig
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  (January) I have a beautiful fig tree next to my house on the south side of my house. I am forced to move it, because a pear tree is overshadowing it. When can I move it and does it need to be next to a building and on the South side? The trunk of the tree is approximately 5 to 6 inches in diameter. When I move it what should I feed it, if anything.

  Wait until winter has passed before moving the fig tree. Fig trees can be damaged by winter weather, (although, that hasn't happened in a while.) Move it in late February or early March. The key is to give it a site with good drainage and at least six hours of sunlight. No fertilization during the first year following transplanting. The key is to plant at the same depth it is growing, mulch and water; then let the roots re-establish themselves. Next season you can worry about fertilization.

  (May) I have a problem with a pink dogwood and a fig tree, both young plants, approximately 3 years old. Some leaves have a while filmy-like substance and the leaves roll up or look folded. What do I need to do?

  It sounds like you have a case of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is a fungus disease that can be a bit tricky to correct once it sets in. Spray with a general fungicide such as Immunox, Daconil or Funginex. If the trees end up getting it every season, you may use a preventative spray in the spring, before you see it, but for now, spray two to three times at weekly intervals and see what happens.

  (July) My Dad started a young fig tree in a container for me this spring. It is approx. 18" tall now. When would be the best time to transplant it to my yard? I can be very flexible with the planting time.

  If you have the fig tree in a container, it would be easier to care for in the ground, even now. When the weather heats up, container gardens are high maintenance, requiring daily water. In the ground, new trees do need more frequent water, but shouldn't need it daily. I would plant now.

  (November) I have two Texas Everbearing fig trees. They are so sprawled out now and it seems that every winter they die back some, then they have to really struggle to get any fruit. I have had them for three years now and I got a small amount of small fruits from them. How and when do you prune them? They are supposed to stand temperatures as low as 10 degrees. I really want them to do better this winter as I want more fruit!

  Although our winters have been getting milder, Northwest Arkansas often gets below 10 degrees in a typical winter. If you look at the garden zones, zone 6b (where you live) has an average low winter temperature of -5 Fahrenheit, while zone 7 can get to 0 and zone 8a (south Arkansas) can get as low as 10 to 15 Fahrenheit. Figs are not reliably top hardy in your part of the state, but will usually return from the root system each year. For that reason, add some extra mulch around the plants, and don’t do any pruning until spring arrives -- then assess the damage. It will not be uncommon to have plant damage even in central Arkansas, although we have been lucky the past ten years or so. The one saving grace is that figs do bear on the current season growth. I don’t have great data on varietal difference but most sources say that Celeste and Brown Turkey are the hardiest of the older varieties (Texas Everbearing is actually another name for Brown Turkey). Two newer varieties you may want to experiment with are Alma and Hardy.

  (November) In April I planted a cut-off from a fig tree in a garden area in my back yard. It has grown fast and is now over six ft. and has little green figs on it. However, since the fall it is dropping all it's leaves at the bottom and the leaves further up are turning yellow and dropping. Are they suppose to do this? I remember fig trees from growing up that never seemed to drop their leaves. What's happening? When and how much do I need to prune?

  Figs are deciduous, and will lose all their leaves as winter approaches. Fig trees can produce two crops of fruit, one that ripens in the summer, and another that sets in late summer through early fall and overwinters on the tree, then ripens with spring. Usually we don't see this fruit to maturity because of winter conditions. Get the fig tree through the winter whole, and do whatever pruning is necessary in late February through mid March. Figs can be somewhat winter sensitive, so wait until spring to prune. Then thinning cuts may be in order to open it up more, and prune to a manageable height to make picking of fruit more accessible.

  How can we best protect our fig trees from winter damage. We live in SW Columbia County, right in the La/Tex corner. Three trees are young, less than 5' tall, one is about 7' tall. Can we build wire fencing around them and fill w/shredded leaves or will this cause the trunk to rot? Or should we just build a "northern wall" to protect from north winds and let it be open to the south. Any advise is appreciated.

  We really haven't had any winter damage on figs for several years--statewide. They have survived fine without any extra help. As far south as you are, rarely will you need any extra protection. If we have one of those killing winters, and temperatures are predicted around 0E for several days, you may want to add extra protection, but for now, I wouldn't worry.

  When do you take cuttings from fig trees? I would like to propagate some more trees for myself and some friends.

  Figs propagate easily from cuttings. Hardwood cuttings taken in late February, or softwood cuttings taken in early to mid June should root easily. Another easy method of propagating figs is to layer them. Take a lower limb and layer it in the ground, weighing it down where you have soil over it. Within a few months it should be sufficiently rooted.

  When I bought my seventy year old house in Park Hill, I planned to plant a fig tree at the corner of the patio that I planned to build. Imagine my pleasure, when I found one already growing. Actually, I have a fig root. There are two chunks, six or eight feet apart, where there used to be fig trees at one time. Both chunks put out new growth in the early summer. In the enclosed pictures, the five foot dead stalk you see, survived for a couple of years, but died back this winter. My fig "Plant" is on the south side of my white house, partially shaded by oaks. I realize that I will have to protect is better, water it more regularly, and probably fertilize it. But I have a lot of unknowns. Do I need a cross pollinator; what kind of fertilizer and when? Is there any information on figs available from the extension service?

  Figs are often considered bushes rather than trees, since the tops are often killed back during the winter. They need a minimum of six to eight hours of sunlight a day to produce fruit, and need a well-drained soil. They are self fruitful, so no cross pollinator is needed. They are also capable of setting fruit on the current season’s growth, so even when some winter damage occurs, we can still have fruit set. Prune your figs in early spring, after winter damage has passed. Usually thinning cuts are all that is needed. Fertilize in the spring when new growth begins, and water an inch of water per week as needed. Pay particular attention to water demands when there is fruit on the branches, or they will drop fruit. There is a USDA bulletin on figs that you should be able to get at your local county extension office.

  How do you take care of a brown turkey fig tree? We planted one this spring and know nothing about it. When do I prune it to keep it the shape I want? 

  Fig trees are often grown as fig bushes in Arkansas, since they frequently get nipped back a little during the winter. Although the tops are susceptible to winter damage, the root system is extremely hardy. Fig trees should not be pruned until new growth is beginning in the early spring. Water regularly, especially when there is fruit on the tree. Fertilize in the spring after pruning.

  I have a fig tree that I transplanted several years ago, to an area just under a large oak tree. It has put out leaves, but hasn’t produced any fruit or grown any at all. Please help me. It was my Mother’s tree and I would like to keep it alive. What should I do?

  Get out the shovel again this fall and move it to a sunnier location. Figs must have at least six hours of sunlight a day to produce figs. Shade is keeping it from producing. Competition of the oaks root systems is probably keeping it from growing much. Move it to a protected spot on the east side of your house if possible. Fall is the ideal time to move it. I wouldn’t attempt it now, since summer is almost here. Keep it watered this summer, and move it in the fall.

  How can we best protect our fig trees from winter damage. We live in SW Columbia County, right in the La/Tex corner. Three trees are young, less than 5' tall, one is about 7' tall. Can we build wire fencing around them and fill with shredded leaves or will this cause the trunk to rot? Or should we just build a "northern wall" to protect from north winds and let it be open to the south. Any advise is appreciated.

  We really haven't had any winter damage on figs for several years--statewide. They have survived fine without any extra help. As far south as you are, rarely will you need any extra protection. If we have one of those killing winters, and temperatures are predicted around 0 for several days, you may want to add extra protection, but for now, I wouldn't worry.

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