Bulbs - Daffodils
Back to Bulbs

  (February) If you thin or transplant the bulbs of daffodils after the shoots have started showing, will they still bloom that season?

  If you can move them without much damage, they should still bloom, but sometimes it does shorten their bloom period. However, to be on the safe side, I would wait until immediately after bloom. If you move them after bloom, be sure to leave the foliage in-tact for the requisite 6 to 8 weeks.

  (March) We have a lot of daffodils at our back fence. There are only a few that bloom. Do you know why that is? Are they planted too deep?

  While the common name daffodil and jonquil is often used interchangeably, and often means the same flower to the people using the name, there is a difference between a jonquil and a daffodil. Daffodils have flat stems, and typically one, unscented flower per stem. Jonquils have a rounded stem, and multiple fragrant blooms per stem. Regardless of the name used, both are welcome additions to the spring landscape and well worth planting.

  (March) I have heard that the way to distinguish between jonquils and daffodils is that one has a flat leaf and one a tubular leaf. If that is so, which is which? Regardless, both are beautiful, especially at winters end.

  The reason daffodils don't bloom is usually either too much shade, or they are too crowded together. If either of the above situations is occurring, then you should solve the problem now--either dig and divide, or replant in a sunnier location. After replanting, let the foliage die back on its own, and they should bloom for you next spring.

  (April) I have several questions in regarding trying to send daffodils to my sister in south central (zone 4) Minnesota. The daffodils have to be dug up in the next week or two because of a construction project. I'm not worried about the ones I'm going to replant, but my sister wants some also. I will be seeing her in Minnesota over Memorial Day week-end. So "HELP"!!! I don't mind planting the bulbs now and digging them up later. Daffodils do not do very well in zone 4, but my sister loves them as much as I do and would love to try something new.

  If the plants have to be dug before they have had six weeks of foliage growth after bloom, they will need to be replanted intact, with their green foliage. Then let the bulbs grow until the foliage dies back. If it has been at least six weeks since they bloomed, or if you can wait that long before digging, you could dig up the bulbs and dry them. For your garden, they could simply be replanted, if you know where you want them to grow, or you could store them for fall planting. For your sister's bulbs, once they have had the required growing time, lift and dry the bulbs. Store the dried bulbs in a cool, dry place before transporting them to Minnesota. I do not know when they plant up there, but the bulbs should be fine until planting time. If you lift them before they have had six weeks of after-bloom growth, you will still have live green growth, but they won't bloom next spring.

  (April) My mom has some beautiful daffodils that I wanted to transplant to my yard. I have read some articles on planting daffodils and they stated that the bulbs require an interval of low temperature during their dormant period before they will flower properly, and they must be planted in the fall. I am unable to wait until fall since they are beginning to do some construction in the area where these are planted. I have to dig them now or they will be bulldozed away. What should I do with the bulbs since I have to dig them up in the spring? Should I plant them now, and will they ever bloom if I do plant them now?

  Fall is typically the season that spring bulbs are available for planting, but that doesn't mean you can't move existing bulbs now. You have several options. If you have to move them now, dig them up, leaving the foliage and bulb attached. Replant them in a sunny location immediately. Allow the foliage to die down on its own. If it gets good sunlight, and has at least 6 weeks of growth following bloom, they should rebloom next year. If the foliage immediately dies back, they may not bloom next spring, but they won't die. They should bloom the following year. If you have a few more weeks before bulldozing occurs, you can also allow them their full six weeks of green growth following bloom where they are--since many daffodils have finished blooming a week or two ago. As long as they get at least six weeks of growth following the flowering season, they should regenerate enough energy to refill the bulb with a flower for next season. Then when you lift them, cut the foliage off and either plant where you want them, or keep them in a dry stage until next fall--either one works. Keep in mind, that once the foliage dies down, whatever is inside the bulb at that point is set for next spring. It does need cool weather next fall and winter to be able to stretch and get a stem, but the flower is already set.

  (May) If you dig up daffodil bulbs now-what is the proper way to store them until planting time this fall?

  Take them out of the ground, shake off the old soil, cut the tops off and let them air dry in the shade for a few days. Once fairly dry, store them in a paper bag, onion sack, cardboard box--something porous, not plastic. Some people put them in shipping peanuts, perlite or wood shavings to keep some space between them, but as long as they are dry, you should be ok. They should be stored in a cool, dry place if possible. Replant next fall.

  (May) Please answer for me once and for all, about the leaves of my daffodils. I am really tired of the foliage now, but have been told if I cut them off, they won't bloom next year. Someone else told me I could cut them in half, and they would be fine. The leaves are as green as gourds right now, and show no signs of dying back. I think there were still leaves in my garden in July last year. Help!

  The definitive answer is 6 to 8 weeks. All spring bulbs need a minimum of six weeks of green foliage growth AFTER bloom to set energy for flowers to set for next spring. By now, (unless you grow some really late flowering forms), that six week period is well past. So cut away. If the growing conditions are favorable-moist and a not excruciatingly hot, the foliage can linger well past that six week time period.

  (December) I need your advice. My daffodils and iris are coming up already. What can they be thinking????? What should I do???

  It is not uncommon for spring blooming bulbs to begin appearing in December. Some of the earlier ones bloom in late January or early February, so it would be natural for the foliage to begin. Our mild fall may have prompted even more growth this year, but the foliage is very winter hardy. It should be fine. Just be sure you don't cut it off or damage it, since that is the only set of leaves they have. Bearded iris plants are often evergreen in Arkansas.

  (December) My daffodils have not bloomed well the past few years. If I were to transplant them right now, would it hurt them? Would they bloom this spring?

  Transplanting daffodils would be tricky, unless they were emerging. If you know for sure where they are, and can move them intact, then you could move them now. Try to keep any roots and new growth intact, so that they can still bloom this spring. Other options are when they are above ground and visibly growing, they can be dug, divided and replanted. Or as soon as they finish blooming, this job can be done. If the plants are not blooming well -- it may be because of shade or overcrowding, solving the problem by transplanting and division will improve their performance the following spring season, but won't alter anything this spring. Once the bulbs go dormant following spring, everything is preset for the following springs blooms. Be sure to give them the required six to eight weeks of green growth after bloom.

  I am enclosing two unopened buds from a jonquil. I have a lot of plants, but the flowers will not open. From about 25 buds I got only one bloom. It was a double flower, white with a little yellow. These plants are on the north side of my house and get very little direct sun, but the stalks are healthy and grow well. We have sandy soil. Why do the buds dry up before they open?

  The problem you are experiencing is referred to as blast. It usually occurs on the double flowering varieties. They are not an easy type for us to grow in the south. When they are subjected to extremes in temperature, this happens. Since fluctuating weather conditions are a fact of life in Arkansas, you may want to opt for a different variety of daffodils that will be more reliable.

  We have some daffodils that have not bloomed for the second year. They bloomed fine in previous years, but just stopped blooming, even though the foliage looks healthy. They are planted on a north slope, under some shade. We have not fertilized them for quite a while, but keep them watered fairly well in the summer.

  How much shade? If they aren't getting sunlight during the green growing period, they won't generate enough energy for flowers. Could they be too crowded? If shade or overcrowding could be a problem, dig them up, thin them and replant in a sunnier spot. Allow the foliage to die down naturally. Hopefully, by next season you will have flowers. Summer time watering usually doesn’t have much impact on daffodils, since they are dormant then.

  Would you please tell me when the proper time to dig up daffodil bulbs to separate and replant? How deep should they be replanted?

  If your bulbs are overcrowded and are not blooming well, when you see the bulbs emerging this winter or after bloom, dig and divide them and reset them. Generally, the bulbs are planted two to three times the size of the bulb, deep in the ground. If the bulbs are blooming fine, dig and divide after the six week period following bloom is finished.

  Are many of my narcissus plants not blooming because we didn't have enough cold weather?

  While warm winters can cause developmental problems with some varieties of daffodils_primarily some of the doubles, it won't cause the lack of flower buds. Flower buds should be set from last growing season. If there are buds present that won't open, that can be blamed on the weather. No buds is another problem. I was quite impressed at how well the flowers stood up to our cold weather, many made it through with no damage, even though the temperatures were well below their tolerance levels.

Several species daffodils are blooming late or sporadically this year. Can it be that the mild winter didn’t trigger growth at the usual time? (Stuttgart)

  The mild fall weather, left many bulbs short of their natural chilling times, and many spring bulbs are shorter than usual this year. Some varieties are more susceptible to fluctuation of winter temperatures and can fail to open. Fertilize your bulbs now and allow the foliage to die down naturally, and hopefully we will have a more typical winter next year.

  We are moving from our current home into a new house in the next few weeks. I have two questions. I would like to move some of my favorite narcissus plants. Is this possible and when can I move them and how? Also, is there any sod that can be laid now or must I live with mud until spring? (Sheridan)

  If you must move the narcissus now, dig up the plants and replant as soon as possible. Try to plant at the same depth they are currently growing. Protect the root system during transport from drying winds and cold temperatures. Waiting until after bloom would be preferable, but if you can’t wait move them quickly. As to sodding, while this isn’t the ideal month to sod, most zoysia and Bermuda sods are available year-round. Make sure you have everything ready when the sod is delivered so it can be laid immediately. Work in small sections, taking care to roll and water to encourage good contact between soil and roots. Your other alternative is to spread straw to hold the soil until spring sodding.

  My mom has some beautiful daffodils that I wanted to transplant to my yard. I have read some articles on planting daffodils and they stated that the bulbs require an interval of low temperature during their dormant period before they will flower properly, and they must be planted in the fall. I am unable to wait until fall since they are beginning to do some construction in the area where these are planted. I have to dig them now or they will be bulldozed away. What should I do with the bulbs since I have to dig them up in the spring? Should I plant them now, and will they ever bloom if I do plant them now?

  Fall is typically the season that spring bulbs are available for planting, but that doesn't mean you can't move existing bulbs now. You have several options. If you have to move them now, dig them up, leaving the foliage and bulb attached. Replant them in a sunny location immediately. Allow the foliage to die down on its own. If it gets good sunlight, and has at least 6 weeks of growth following bloom, they should rebloom next year. If the foliage immediately dies back, they may not bloom next spring, but they won't die. They should bloom the following year. If you have a few more weeks before bulldozing occurs, you can also allow them their full six weeks of green growth following bloom where they are--since many daffodils have finished blooming a week or two ago. As long as they get at least six weeks of growth following the flowering season, they should regenerate enough energy to refill the bulb with a flower for next season. Then when you lift them, cut the foliage off and either plant where you want them, or keep them in a dry stage until next fall--either one works. Keep in mind, that once the foliage dies down, whatever is inside the bulb at that point is set for next spring. It does need cool weather next fall and winter to be able to stretch and get a stem, but the flower is already set.

Back to Bulbs