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Gardening Calendar
January is not a big gardening month, but there are some tasks which can be
accomplished beginning in February.
February marks the beginning of the growing season. We see the first signs of
spring blooms in winter jasmine and winter honeysuckle. Early daffodils and
crocus are blooming and it is the season to pay attention to weather forecasts.
Arkansas is known for its fluctuations. A few warm days in the winter can incite
plants into new growth. If you are beginning to see life in your dormant shrubs,
especially hydrangeas, be prepared to protect them, should a cold snap occur.
Tender new growth is much more sensitive to cold than their dormant counterpart.
Covering large plants is difficult. It is much easier to throw some extra mulch
or even a cardboard box over a small shrub or perennial, but large bushes and
fruit trees pose a real problem. Often we have to hope Mother Nature is kind to
us. Sheets, burlap, garden "blankets" called Remay, can give you a few degrees
of protection, but can be hard to fasten to the plants. Make sure there is ample
moisture in the ground prior to a cold snap.
Bulbs
All spring bulbs should be up and growing now; some are even in bloom. When
you see the flower stalk emerging from the foliage, it’s a great time to
fertilize. Use a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 or 20-20-20. Don’t get
hung up on bone meal—that is just at planting season. Your bulbs need nitrogen,
phosphorous and potash. If you put the fertilizer out shortly before blooming,
the nutrition will be readily available as soon as blooming is over and they
begin the process of setting blooms for next season. Length of bloom depends a
lot on the weather and the variety, but you can expect several weeks of color
from most bulbs. Daffodils are the easiest to care for and can remain in place
for years without division. Tulips and hyacinths benefit from
dead-heading—removing the spent flower after bloom.
Annuals & Perennials
Pansies, violas and other winter color should be bouncing back from any
slowdown in winter color. You have a good two to three months left of color from
these plants, so a little care can add to that. Fertilize, deadhead and clean up
any damage. As the days lengthen, we get some warmer days, they should really be
blooming.
Many perennials are emerging from their winter dormancy as well. Summer
perennials should not be making a huge appearance now, but daylilies are
greening up, hellebores are really growing and beginning to bloom, and
columbine, poppies and bleeding heart are all making an appearance. Watch for
late cold snaps and throw a little extra mulch on tender plants if warranted.
Last year the daylilies went through several phases of green up/ die back
because of fluctuating weather. Perennials are also appearing at many nurseries
and garden centers. Plants which come in those boxes or plastic sleeves need to
be purchased and planted while dormant. You can find everything from the early
perennials to corms of liatris, hostas, and lilies.
Fruit Trees
We often see some early blooms on fruit trees this month, but don’t worry.
For those homeowners with a few trees, hold off until late in the month to begin
pruning. All fruit trees, grape vines and blueberry bushes should have annual
pruning this month. There will be a fruit pruning demonstration February 14 in
Clarksville at the UA Fruit Research Station. Reservations are required; call
479-754-2406 for more information. Clean up any debris that remains on the trees
or around them. Starting the season off as clean as possible is always best.
This is also the season to plant new fruit trees and blueberry bushes. Most
nurseries carry the best selections now. Be aware that most fruit crops benefit
or need a plant to cross-pollinate with. Also remember, most tree fruits are not
carefree—they do need spray programs and annual pruning.
Roses
Know what type of roses you have before you begin the job of pruning. Hybrid
tea roses do need severe pruning each year in February. These bushes are pruned
back to within 8-18 inches of the ground each year. Choose three to five main
stems and prune to an outward facing bud. Be aware the top bud or sprout will be
your rose cane for the season. We want them all to grow outwards, keeping the
center of the rose bush as open as possible. This will ensure better airflow and
sunlight penetration, helping with more flowers and less disease problems.
Climbing roses often need some annual pruning as well, but wait until after they
bloom in the spring to prune. Shrub roses, antiques and ramblers should be
pruned in accordance with their growth habit and their bloom season. If they
bloom only in the spring, prune after bloom. You don’t have to be as harsh in
their pruning.
Other plants that benefit from pruning later this month include Althea,
Buddleia, summer blooming spiraea, crape myrtles (if needed), Vitex, and Clethra.
These plants all bloom in the summer on new growth. Don’t prune any spring
blooming shrubs, gardeni as or big leaf hydrangeas. Pruning these plants now
will remove your potential blooms.
Lawns
Winter weeds got a quick start this past fall and are plentiful. Try to kill
the broadleaf weeds as early this month as possible. Look for an herbicide
containing 2,4-D. A combination spray containing mecoprop and dicamba will give
you good control. Be sure to apply according to label directions and avoid
spraying on a windy day. The goal is to kill these weeds before they begin
blooming. Bloom set is not far away, and if they bloom they quickly set seeds,
causing you more problems next year. The little sticker weed spurweed is up and
growing too, so don’t delay. Later this month you can also apply the
pre-emergent herbicide to prevent summer weeds. Try to find a stand alone
product without fertilizer. It is a tad early to be fertilizing warm season
grasses, so weed and feed products really don’t benefit the lawn much with
nitrogen. It is best to begin fertilizing lawns after spring green up.
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